Caroline Murta
UNDERCOVER Spring/Summer RTW 2024
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When the lights went down, guests thought the show was over, but instead, three models in strapless dresses floated down the runway, appearing to glow from within. Their clear skirts were serving as terrariums, specked with real flowers and filled with live butterflies dancing about.
Backstage, the designer mentioned morality and shared that he was grieving for people he was close to. His translator said, “He feels like he’s stuck in the world, but he wants to release himself.” Throughout the collection, Takahashi expressed this idea literally, with the sheer materials of his garments revealing items like playing cards or razors. He took banal instances of humanity, often just hidden away in pockets, and put them on display behind shrouding, transforming them into something phantasmagorical.
But nothing felt more otherworldly than his terrarium dresses, which freed everyone in the audience from themselves for a brief moment of fashion fantasy. The butterflies, too, he assured us, would be released after the show.
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